When it comes to shopping for an engagement ring, there are two paths: a brand-new, just-made stunner that's never sat on anyone's finger or something vintage, with history. There's something special about that latter option, not least because they're often more delicate and unique than the pieces advertised by modern jewelers. Plus, if you're the dreamy type it can feel romantic that you're including a sweet spot from someone else's love story into your own.
The appeal of vintage pieces is real and growing, with research done by eBay reporting that interest in rings 20 years or older (their benchmark for calling something vintage) has jumped up by 200 percent since 2011. It wouldn't be off-base to guess that the trend is partly explained by the very now feeling of wanting something unique. A simple solitaire will always be stunning, but a vintage piece feels less one-size-fits-all.
"Vintage is all about being classic to another era and a truly one-of-a-kind piece," Nikki Lawrence, CEO of estate jewelry company Gleem & Co., told us. "A European-cut diamond won't have the same glittery look of a brilliant-cut stone, but it will give off a rainbow of reflections that no modern stone will have. Rings from the Art Deco era [in the '20s and '30s] are signified by clean, geometric lines, while Victorian rings will have designs heavy on motifs and symbols."
If you're overwhelmed by what decade to start looking at (so many years of sparkle!), Lawrence suggests the '20s, the '30s, and, surprise, the '90s.
"The Art Deco era has the most to offer. Platinum is a very popular metal today and it was also prominent during those decades, giving it cross-over value," she said. "The '90s is another strong era for vintage rings. You can find that modern look at a discount, which is great for getting more stone for your buck." (And, yep, rings produced before 1996 are officially going to be termed as vintage).
Intrigued? If you're ready to start browsing what's out there, Lawrence says it's important to find an appraiser you trust and to take a good look yourself. "Have the piece appraised before buying by an accredited appraiser well versed in estate jewelry. If you start trying to apply modern day norms to vintage or antique jewelry, you'll end up going astray since techniques and styles have changed over the years," she said, recommending the International Gemological Institute (IGI) for full appraisals that don't require stones to be removed (something you want to avoid with vintage).
If you find yourself at an estate sale or antiques shop and spy something sparkly, know what you can quickly examine to decide if something's worth calling in an actual expert. Peer under the top part of the ring to see what's called the gallery (where the actual stone sits): If it looks strong and well-built, the ring should be of good quality. Take a peek at the prongs holding the diamond too. Like the gallery, they should look sturdy and not like they're in danger of breaking or crumbling.
Study up: Come see a quick history of 100 years of engagement rings.
After “I do”: Prep for your honeymoon with this: